The Todra Gorge is one of the premier climbing destinations in Morocco with high walls offering hundreds of routes of sport and multi-pitch climbing routes on solid, reddish limestone. There are hundreds of high-quality climbing routes covering a wide range of difficulty. The Todra is located in the South of Morocco about seven hours east of Marrakech. The rock is superb and the walls are high! Bring your 70 meter rope as even the single pitch climbing is high. It’s a good idea to not only have a lot of quick draws but also good to bring material to reinforce anchors (tat, cord, mallions, etc.). If you are thinking about climbing some of the classic multi-pitch routes, you will want to have a sport and trad rack along for the ride.
The Gorge is a great place to learn to climb. The area is absolutely beautiful and the sky is so blue. There are some great climbing areas geared towards beginners with good bolt and anchor placement with moderate grades. It is easy to find climbing at all grades. The French Sport Grade is used in the Todra Gorge as in most places in Morocco so be sure to have an awareness of your climbing level and even a grade conversion chart if necessary. There are a number of climbs put up by professional climbers throughout the years in the 8’s French Grade (5.13 – 5.14). Don’t be intimidated as there are countless numbers of moderate routes in the 4 to 6 range French Grade (5.7 – 5.11).
There are a number of hotel and auberge options in the Gorge. If you have transportation and are willing to drive a few kilometers past the gorge, Climb Morocco recommends the auberge Les Amis. Les Amis is in the beautiful village of Tamtatouchte. They have comfortable rooms, great food, a relaxing atmosphere, and places to camp as well. Climb Morocco loves to climb and guide in the Todra Gorge. If you’re interested in information or having us plan your next climbing adventure in the Todra Gorge and guiding you on some of the best climbing Morocco has to offer, contact us to let us know.
|Voie Abert||A classic 8-9 pitch mixed climb up the central Pilier du Couchant in the center of the gorge.||Mixed Sport/Trad||6b||Saracosta||A fun route on Plage Mansour Left that begins on a slabby face and then finishes up a slightly overhanging corner with great holds.||Single-Pitch Sport||6a+||Smouf Ondweb||A nice and well bolted 4 pitch sport route up the tower just downstream of Pilier du Couchant. Sharp rock with a lot of friction.||Multi-Pitch Sport||6a||Kss-Kss||A great balancy route right above the river in Jardin Des Roches with with a crux off a small crimper 3/4 of the way to the anchor.||Single-Pitch Sport||6a||Je Abidul||One of the long classics with great views on Jardin D'ete with a crux right before the anchor. Bring your 70m rope.||Single-Pitch Sport||5c+||Big Ben||Really fun climb at Jardin D'Hiver with a tricky start up onto a ledge and then following up a steep second bulge on crimpy holds and pockets to the anchors.||Single-Pitch Sport||6b+||Docteur Excentrique||One of the classic and photogenic climbs above the road at Petit Gorge Left that starts up a generous flake, up through a gently overhanging roof with good holds and finishes up high over the bulge.||Single-Pitch Sport||6a+||Prisa Mata Amigo||One of the many great climbs at Petit Gorge Right (River side) that starts up an overhanging wall on generous holds and then up and over two further bulges to the anchors on really interesting and textured rock.||Single-Pitch Sport||5c+||Chibania||One of our favorite long routes in the gorge if you're up for the grade. A sustained classic right up the right side of the Pilier du Couchant with some very interesting face climbing as well as a memorable stemming adventure on the crux pitch. Well bolted all of the way making for a great day out!||Multi-Pitch Sport||6b+|
Guide Book and info for the Todra Gorge
Visit this site for some in depth info on climbing in the Todra as well as purchasing a climbing guidebook for the gorge.Website
Todra - Guy Albert
There is a small guidebook of the Todra Gorge that was published in French by French climber Guy Albert a number of years ago. While it might be a helpful resource for some, the information in it is a little dated by now so be sure to compare it with the current info in the Gorge if you're using this book.Website
Exotic Rock - Sam Lightner
Sam Lightner's "Exotic Rock - The Travel Guide for Rock Climbers" is also available and has a small section in it on the Todra Gorge.Website
Click the link below to read an article called “Moroccan Gold” highlighting the history of the gorge and the climbing it has to offer.Website
Topos and Guides
Click on the link below to see a website that contains a topo and some route guides for climbing in the Todra Gorge.Website