The area surrounding the town of Tafraout in southern Morocco has a seemingly endless potential for rock climbing and the possibility for putting up new routes. The rock formations and boulders around the town and in the nearby area offer great climbing on granite and there is an enormous amount of bouldering available as well.
A number of French, Spanish, and British climbers have also developed and bolted some of the difficult to protect faces and boulders on the various spires in the area. There are currently some 27 documented crags with over 70 sport or mixed routes of varying levels of difficulty. There is a large potential for this area to continue to be developed and new routes put up.
Check out the below websites for specific information about the sport climbing in Tafraout including maps, transportation, and logistical details. It also has information and route guides with pictures to the various areas that are already established. Be aware that some of the information is a number of years old so make sure that you pay attention to any mention of anchors or bolts on climbs since we have discovered that a number of the anchors or bolts are either old or missing. Be prepared to find an alternate descent if anchors at the top of a bolted climb are either missing or old. Some areas are more developed and newer than others. We’re grateful though for the work that’s been put into documenting some of the sport climbs in the area.
Popular Routes
| Route | Description | Type | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fender Stratocaster | This is a great slab climb on the Yelmo Carpantónico & Cancho del Perro wall with tiny crimper holds and very balancy and delicate moves. | Single-Pitch Sport | 6b+ | Kie-13 | Also on Yelmo Carpantónico & Cancho del Perro but on the far left side is Kie-13. Another challenging slab climb with an interesting crux that involves a balancy under cling to a committing pullup on a tiny crimper. Definitely a classic. | Single-Pitch Sport | 6c+ | Unnamed | The most beautiful line on Black Wall. Good holds and crimps starting at the lowest point of the slab. Anchors have been stolen but you can still make a belay with some large cams on top. | Single-Pitch Sport | 6a |
Resources
Tafraout Sport Climbing
The best information we've been able to find about sport climbing on the granite surrounding the town of Tafraout can be found on the website above. There is also a map listing each area as well as some photos and route descriptions of the different crags.
WebsiteBlog post about trip to Tafraout
Click on the link above to check out a recent blog post about a climbing trip we took to Tafraout and some of the great, frictiony sport climbs we found there.
Website
