The Todra Gorge is a near perfect place for a few days of climbing, especially in the Fall, Winter, and Spring. It is sunny most of the time and you normally just decide whether you want to climb in the shade or in the sun depending on the temperature at the time. Over the last few months we’ve been able to spend quite a bit of time in the Todra Gorge and have managed to climb a number of the classic and not-so classic routes that we hadn’t gotten around to up until now.
Jay finishing up the 5th pitch of Chibania (6b+)
Todra Gorge is known for it’s extremely solid and sometimes sharp red limestone and the endless single and multi-pitch bolted sport routes. What many don’t know is that there are also quite a few established traditional routes at all grades where you can leave the bolt-clipping behind and make good use of your nuts and cams. On a number of the older routes where there are either sketchy old-style bolts and hangers or rusty pitons, it’s really great and confidence inspiring to be able to protect yourself high off the deck with some cams and nuts here and there as well.
The engaging and creative crux corner pitch of Chibania (6b+)
In our last couple of trips there we were able to complete various multi-pitch trad, sport, and mixed climbs on the Paroi Du Levant, Plage Mansour, Jardin D’Ete, Pilier Du Couchant, Aguille Du Gue, Aguille De Grabe, and Dounab walls. These were routes with everything from 2-9 pitches of great climbing some with memorable exposure and unforgettable vantage points and views from the top of the gorge at over 300 meters (1000 ft) off of the ground.
Kevin following pitch 2 of 6 on the classic Cœur de Palmier (6c) on Plage Mansour.
Rarely seen view of the Todra Gorge and Pilier Du Couchant from the top of Paroi Du Levant
Topping out pitch 8 of 9 on Paroi Du Levant far above the palmerie and the village of Tizgui below.
